Post details: Crown Molding Made Easy - Part 3


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Crown Molding Made Easy - Part 3

To summarize: On a right inside corner, the blade is 45 degrees to the left, and the bulk of the workpiece is to the left of the blade.

What's really nice is that you don't have to remember that - it's printed right on the jig (along with the orientations for left inside corners and both outside corners).

Now, let's cut a left inside corner on the other end of the template. Looking at the saw, swing the blade 45 degrees to your right. Place the molding in the jig ("Bottom's UP!) and place the jig on the bed of the saw. The bulk of the workpiece should be to the right of the blade. Slide the jig so that the cut will remove a minimum of waste. Make sure the jig is NOT IN THE PATH OF THE BLADE. Without turning on the saw, drop the blade to make sure it misses the jig. Adjust if required. Keep your right hand on the molding inside the confines of the jig (where it is safe), and make the cut.

To summarize: On a left inside corner, the blade is 45 degrees to the right, and the bulk of the workpiece is to the right of the blade.

When you are cutting actual pieces (as opposed to the template), you may have to make a very slight adjustment to the 45 degrees, depending on how close to 90 degrees your room's corners are. But you'll be pleasantly surprised that almost all cuts will end up working quite well with the saw set to 45 degrees. You now know how to make all your inside and outside corner cuts. The only thing left to cover is splicing. In that case, you place the workpiece in the jig ("Bottom's up!"), set the blade at 45 degrees in either direction, and make a cut at one end of one piece of molding. Then, leave the setup exactly the same and make your second cut on the end of a second piece of molding. As long as the angle of the miter saw blade remains the same, you'll have a perfect splice every time.


In one hand, hold the end of the workpiece that fits in the corner. In the other hand, hold your template. With the bottoms down, slide them both into the corner and make minor adjustments until you have a perfect fit (no gaps). Nail the workpiece in place - a finish nailgun works wonderfully, and they're cheap to rent.

If the workpiece is more than a couple of feet long, you'll need a helper. If a live body isn't available, take a look at Rockler's Multi-Quick support. It's very inexpensive and it will hold a length of molding in position while you make minor adjustments and/or nail the piece in place.


You'll need to make up three templates - one for inside corners, one for outside corners, and one for splices. They are used as visual checks so you always make the right cut, and also to line up the molding on the wall during installation.

Note that the jig doesn't slide on the bed of your saw once you're set up, or that the molding doesn't slip in the jig. This is in part due to a non-slip material applied to both faces of the back (fixed) fence - a small detail but one you'll be delighted with in the course of the job.

The jig can handle moldings up to 4-7/8" wide (depending on the angles of the top and bottom edges).

Tools you'll need for this project


Free catalog

Free catalog


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