Solving Door Problems

Introduction

If a door sticks or does not close properly, don't assume that you need to remove it and plane it. Analyze the situation while the door is in place. Often, screws holding the top hinge come loose, causing the door to lean. Remount the screws.

Loose screws, however, may be a symptom of other problems. Close the door, watching the hinge half that is connected to the jamb. If the hinge half moves, it is under stress and will come loose again. Check where the door is rubbing, scribe a line along it, and plane it.

Freeing a sticky door doesn't always require major surgery.

1. Door rubs against jamb

If your door is rubbing against the jamb on the hinge side, you can relieve the pressure by shimming the hinges out. Unscrew the part of the hinge connected to the jamb and insert a piece of cardboard behind it. If a door binds at the top of the strike jamb, you may be able to fix it by shimming out the bottom hinge.

2. Loose hinge screws

If hinge screws are loose, wedge the door open and remove the screws. Fold back the hinge, taking care not to lose shims that may be behind it. Whittle hole-size pieces of wood, add white glue, and push them into the holes. Chisel the plugs flush, fold the hinge back, drill pilot holes, and redrive the screws.

3. Removing a door

If the door needs to be modified so it will fit, mark it with clear scribe lines. You probably will need to remove it to get at the edges that need planing. Tap the hinge pins out with a nail set, removing the bottom pin first. If the hinges are old and the pins are solidly rusted or painted in place, you'll have to unscrew the hinges from the door to remove it.

4. Planing a door

Set the door on its edge on a flat surface. Brace it in a corner so it will not move as you work. If you need to plane the whole edge, work inward from each end toward the middle to avoid splintering (see Shaping and Planing, Related Projects). If you have to remove a lot of material, rip-saw the door with a circular saw, then plane it smooth.

5. Moving the stop to correct a bind

Sometimes a door will bind against the stop on the hinge side, or it will not close properly because the stop on the latch side is placed improperly. In either case, it is much easier to move the stop than to unwarp a door. Pry the stop off. Close the door and scribe a line on the jamb along the door's inside edge. Renail the stop on this line.

6. Shimming or moving a strike plate

If a strike plate is too far away for the door latch to engage it, shim it out with cardboard shims. Often a latch and strike will get out of alignment because the house has settled. If this occurs, unscrew the strike, chisel out a new mortise where necessary, drill pilot holes, and reinstall the strike. Fill the old mortise cavity with wood putty and sand it smooth.

Tip: Quieting squeaks

Door squeaks may be caused by rusty hinges. Open the door and oil the hinge with a lightweight oil. Then open and close the door several times. If this doesn't solve the problem, prop open the door with shims at the floor and remove a hinge pin. Clean rust off the hinge and clean out the hole into which the pin fits, using a pipe cleaner or rolled-up emery cloth. Oil the parts and replace the hinge pin. Repeat this process for the other hinge(s). Do not tap the hinge pins all the way down; leave a little gap so they can be pried out easily. Still squeaking? Replace the hinges.

BHG

Tips | Homeowners | Home

1. Door rubs against jamb If your door is rubbing against the jamb on the hinge side, you can relieve the pressure by shimming the hinges out. Unscrew the part of the hinge connected to the jamb and insert a piece of cardboard behind it. If a door binds at the top of the strike jamb, you may be able to fix it by shimming out the bottom hinge.
2. Loose hinge screws If hinge screws are loose, wedge the door open and remove the screws. Fold back the hinge, taking care not to lose shims that may be behind it. Whittle hole-size pieces of wood, add white glue, and push them into the holes. Chisel the plugs flush, fold the hinge back, drill pilot holes, and redrive the screws.
3. Removing a door If the door needs to be modified so it will fit, mark it with clear scribe lines. You probably will need to remove it to get at the edges that need planing. Tap the hinge pins out with a nail set, removing the bottom pin first. If the hinges are old and the pins are solidly rusted or painted in place, you'll have to unscrew the hinges from the door to remove it.
4. Planing a door Set the door on its edge on a flat surface. Brace it in a corner so it will not move as you work. If you need to plane the whole edge, work inward from each end toward the middle to avoid splintering (see Shaping and Planing, Related Projects). If you have to remove a lot of material, rip-saw the door with a circular saw, then plane it smooth.
5. Moving the stop to correct a bind Sometimes a door will bind against the stop on the hinge side, or it will not close properly because the stop on the latch side is placed improperly. In either case, it is much easier to move the stop than to unwarp a door. Pry the stop off. Close the door and scribe a line on the jamb along the door's inside edge. Renail the stop on this line.
6. Shimming or moving a strike plate If a strike plate is too far away for the door latch to engage it, shim it out with cardboard shims. Often a latch and strike will get out of alignment because the house has settled. If this occurs, unscrew the strike, chisel out a new mortise where necessary, drill pilot holes, and reinstall the strike. Fill the old mortise cavity with wood putty and sand it smooth.