Introduction
As incandescent fixtures age, a variety of problems can arise. Here's a look at the most common sources of trouble.
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Anatomy of an incandescent fixture
Though they vary widely in style, most incandescent fixtures have the same arrangement of components.
Mounting screws hold a canopy plate against the ceiling. The canopy has one or more sockets for bulbs. A translucent diffuser or globe cuts down on the glare of bare lightbulbs. In newer fixtures, a ring of fiber insulation provides added protection from heat damage to the wires and ceiling.
If a fixture shorts out, causing a circuit to blow and/or creating sparks, the problem is probably in the fixture. If it simply refuses to light, the wall switch may be faulty (see Testing and Replacing Switches, Related Projects).
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A cracked socket
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1. Inspect the socket
Shut off the circuit that supplies power to the fixture. Inspect the socket. If it is cracked, or if its wires are scorched or melted, replace it or the entire fixture. If it's OK, remove the bulb and check the contact at the socket's base. If there's corrosion, scrape the contact with a flat screwdriver or steel wool, and pry up on it.
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Checking the wiring
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2. Check the wiring
If the problem remains, shut off the circuit again, loosen or remove the mounting screws, and drop the fixture from its outlet box. Check for loose connections and for nicked insulation. If you see drywall paper that is slightly peeling near the fixture or heat-cracked wire insulation, your fixture is overheating. This means either that it is faulty or you need to reduce the wattage of the bulbs. Wrap any bare wires with electrical tape.
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Keep the Fiber Insulation
Although it makes installation a bit more difficult, don't remove the fiber insulation in the canopy plate. It provides extra protection against shorts.